McKenzie ThompsonSave this storySave this storyThe search for eternal youth is nothing new. But if the best serums for wrinkles are any clue, we’re getting closer and closer to finding some semblance of that—for skin, at least. While the popularity of these fine line-fighting face serums hasn’t changed, the people using them have. These days, consumers are becoming much more savvy about what’s inside their serums—and the formulas, as a result, are evolving accordingly. They’re moving beyond mere hydration or a single active ingredient. “Retinoids and antioxidants are still incredibly important, but now there is much more attention being paid to peptides, growth factors, and other technologies that target different aspects of skin aging,” says Dr. Melanie Palm, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Solana Beach, California.
But in an age of injectables and lasers, where do these anti-aging serums fall in your skin-care routine? Consider them complements rather than competitors. “I often tell patients that in-office treatments are only part of the equation,” says Dr. Palm. “What you’re putting on your skin every morning and every night matters because you’re doing it 365 days a year.”
While no serum is going to deliver the results of a facelift, that doesn't mean it’s not doing anything. Topical face serums can indeed make a world of difference in fine lines, uneven skin texture, pigmentation, and dryness. In fact, if you’re investing in procedures like neuromodulator and filler injections or lasers, “it makes sense to support and protect the skin between those appointments,” Dr. Palm says.
Not only have the best wrinkle serums evolved, they’ve also multiplied—meaning there are more options than ever for keeping skin firm, supple, and radiant. With that in mind, scroll ahead to find those that dermatologists and editors alike count on.
First, consider the ingredients, with a retinoid, such as retinol, being the most important. It’s “a powerhouse ingredient known to accelerate skin-cell turnover, boost collagen production, and smooth out fine lines and wrinkles,” says Dr. Libby. “It also helps improve skin tone and texture and overall skin appearance.” In short, there’s little it can’t do to improve skin and give it a more youthful appearance. (The downside? It can be drying on skin, leaving it red and irritated.)
In addition to retinol—or in lieu of it, for those who can’t use retinol or tolerate it due to its side effects—another worthwhile ingredient is peptides. “Peptides act as messengers to the cells to increase collagen and elastin production, minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and increase wound healing,” says Dr. Lin, who notes that these tend to be more gentle and don’t require an acclimation the way retinol does. Moreover, “there is also some evidence to suggest that the peptides may support the skin barrier to protect against UV damage, which can contribute to skin aging,” she says.
Retinol and peptides can take time to yield results, which is where hyaluronic acid can be especially helpful. Naturally found in skin, its supply dips with age—and restoring it through a topical product can offer an immediate improvement in skin texture. “For some, it can have a plumping effect and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” says Dr. Lin. “In addition, it may have wound healing properties and promote tissue repair.”
A word on collagen: Though you might see it as an ingredient, it doesn’t simply replace the collagen that gives firmness and structure to skin. “In its true form, collagen is too large of a molecule to penetrate the skin,” says Dr. Lin. And while you might find a hydrolyzed, or broken-down, version of it in formulas, it’s still unclear whether this can penetrate skin well enough to offer any true benefits. As a result, “it may be better to have ingredients that can increase collagen production instead,” says Dr. Lin. However, collagen can have moisturizing properties, she says, so it still has use in some formulations.
